random notes: The Lonely Neglected Caves at Barabar

Inside One of the Caves
Photo: Ravi

Beyond the debates on malaise that plagues it, Bihar has a rich past - and without being chauvinistic about a region/place it needs to be explored how people lived in the ancient republic of Vaishali where excavations are still on or feel the mastery of craftsmanship at Manersharif where Mughal architecture in dilapidated state tells you a story of its affluent past.

It was not till I could break the shackles of childhood and guardianship of a generation which was least interested in telling the next generation about the history lying around. We would, standing on rooftop on one of those clear days, shout to each other if the fabled Barabar hills were visible. And we would convince each other that it could be seen. I do not know if that was possible when the two sites were located around sixty kilometers apart.

The crocodile shaped hill which has caves
Photo: Ravi

We were on our way to Bodhgaya, a revisit in the sweltering heat. Suddenly after Makhdumpur on Jehanabad-Gaya road we saw a road sign indicating towards left Barabar hills and Banabar Temple (the temple dedicated to the tenth avatar of Shiva).

On way to the caves
Photo: Ravi

We took a path and got lost because there was no road. There were some workers working on a road. We took a path through the jungle and after much effort could reach a road which in need of much repair. We reached the foothills. It was burning hot. We did not know where to go, where were the famous caves. Then we met Nandu Paswan who offered to take us to the caves which were up the hill, after fifty stairs. He asked if we would like to visit the Banabar temple but the weather was too difficult to climb five hundred stairs.

The caves were dark and are believed to be residences of saints and their disciples. Architecturally, two out of four had simple rectangular entrances. The entrances had Ashokan inscriptions written on them. When one goes inside the dark hall, hardly anything was visible. When eyes got adjusted the walls appeared to have a smooth granite polished finish.

Inside the cave

The cave belonging to the Lomas Rishi had a beautifully carved entrance and a detailed inscription. But the walls inside did not have the kind of polishing that could found in the other two caves.

Entrance to the Lomas Rishi Cave
Photo: Ravi

After washing our face with the sweet cold water from the historic well nearby we started our descent. The well at this height is filled by water which is believed to enhance the taste of any food (howsoever simple) that is cooked in it. In the month of Sawan the whole area is flooded by visitors who go to the Banabar temple and cook food in open (in the saucer shaped rock created by rains and weather). They cook food from the same well.